Surf's Up

Bonefish Grill at the Waterfront offers fresh seafood in landlocked Kansas.

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Until recently, options for fresh seafood were fairly limited—Red Lobster, Long John’s and a handful of other casual local eateries. But fine dining that specializes in seafood? In landlocked Kansas? That was a tough find. Then, Bonefish Grill (10250 E. 13th Street, Ste. 102, 316-315-0299) opened in late 2006 with the promise of fresh fish in a fancy atmosphere. Sure, the restaurant is near a manmade lake at The Waterfront, but tasting is believing when it comes to finding truly fresh seafood.

So on a recent Tuesday night, I invited a college friend to join me at Bonefish. My friend Sam brought along his wife, Carmen, and their toddler, Kiona. “How many?” asked the hostess “Three and a half,” I said. Even though it was a Tuesday night, the restaurant was packed. Several recognizable locals sat at nearby booths and tables, separated just enough for some privacy. Dim lighting and shades of tan and copper added a warm and inviting feel.

To get started, we ordered the Bang Bang Shrimp, a necessity for any trip to Bonefish Grill. (Readers recently voted the dish the best appetizer in Wichita.) This was my first encounter with the shrimp, so I expected a typical variety of cocktail shrimp and sauce. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised when a dish arrived with tender, crispy gulf shrimp tossed in a creamy, spicy sauce. The sauce provided an extra kick that lived up to the dish’s name.

For an entrée, I ordered the Chilean sea bass with Pan-Asian sauce. It was grilled to perfection on a wood-burning stove, with a tender inside and a crisp exterior. Sliced carrots and spinach topped off the dish, and the Pan-Asian sauce gave it an added flavoring somewhere between barbecue and soy sauce. I let Sam take a bite. “Wow, mine is good, but yours is great,” he said. (Sam doesn’t typically get too excited about food, but he lit up after that bite.) To top it off, I had the Hypnotiq Breeze Martini, a tropical combination of Bacardi Cóco, Hypnotiq liquer and pineapple juice. To my surprise, it arrived with a glowing blue stick inside. The tropical flavor and blue-colored concoction was the perfect way to top off the seafood.

Sam ordered the Gulf Grouper with green onions, carrots and spinach. Following the server’s recommendation, he added the Pan-Asian sauce. The grouper wasn’t as tender as the sea bass, but it was still delicious. Sam isn’t typically a martini guy, but he tried the Pomegranate Martini. After several sips, he was a fan. “I have to figure out how to make this at home,” he said, reading the menu’s description: “Fris Vodka infused with the fresh flavors of mango and pomegranate.”

Carmen got the Sea Scallops and Gulf Shrimp with warm mango salsa and the steamed vegetable medley. She thoroughly enjoyed every bite of the colorful dish.

Total cost: About $100 for three entrees, two drinks and an appetizer. While walking to the car, we discussed the meal. “It was great,” said Sam. “We would have paid the same at any nice chain.” The quality of the food was superb, and the environment made for a relaxing dinner. Personally, I’m already craving my next taste of the Bang Bang Shrimp and the Chilean Sea Bass. After all, it’s not every day you eat fresh, delicious seafood in Kansas.