Rock Chalk

Lawrence is more than just the Jayhawks.

When people around here think about Lawrence, they generally envision an imaginary red and blue bird that’s part of the well-known University of Kansas chant, “Rock Chalk Jayhawk.” But a day trip to the Douglas County seat reveals a culturally stimulating river town that’s full of shopping, dining, sightseeing and entertainment. Whether you’re looking for a new place to take the family or seeking out cool concerts, all of it can be found in the historic and preserved center of the Kansas River Valley. Plus it’s ideal for a weekend getaway: Lawrence is just two and a half hours up Interstate 35 and a half-hour west of Kansas City.

Lawrence may be known for being the home of the University of Kansas, but unless you’re going to a game make a beeline to downtown Lawrence before heading to the KU campus. While there are only a few blocks between campus and the main shopping district, the stately homes and towering maples along cobblestone streets in between are worth a look. In this part of town, people sit and wave to passers-by from their porches as families enjoy the nearby Watson Park. This family-friendly neighborhood features the home of legendary beatnik author William Burroughs. All of the streets in this area are named after states: Kentucky, Tennessee, Maine and Missouri. The north-south streets in Lawrence go from east to west in the order states were admitted into the Union. The layout starts with Delaware and leads to Iowa Street, the last state admitted before…Kansas, of course! Perhaps the most famous street is downtown’s Massachusetts Street, featuring nearly a mile of activities that could keep you busy from early morning to late night. The architecture of the street (better known as “Mass Street” to locals and KU students) showcases Victorian storefronts and restored brick façades. A stroll down the sidewalks not only offers good window browsing but markers telling the story of Lawrence’s vibrant but violent history. (Lawrence was a hotbed of abolitionist activity during the Civil War era; things got pretty dicey, particularly when Missourian William Quantrill and his gang burned down churches and schools to protest some gambling debts).

Mass Street retailers offer a friendly and cozy environment for shopping. A row of quaint stores is a gathering place for all kinds, from local artisans and students to out-of-town window shoppers. While major chains like Gap and Talbot’s line the street, local entrepreneurs still rule the roost. The independent stores vary from clothing boutiques to delicious eateries, art galleries to specialty shops. Stitch On Needlework Shop offers quilting materials and Christmas collectibles year-round. Penny Annie’s Sweet Shoppe is a popular place for candy, gourmet popcorn, ice cream and more. Hobbs is a unique gift shop with books, gadgets clothing and more. Do you like shoes? Footprints has more than 10,000 Birkenstocks on its shelves. And Silver Works & More offers jewelry, crafts and artwork from local, regional and national artists.

Speaking of art, Fields Gallery displays and sells pieces from all over the world. For something more local, Diane’s Artisan Gallery doubles as a loom and glass blowing studio. Boutique shops Au Marché and Brits offer beverages, clothing and knickknacks from a plethora of European countries. Brits even keeps beer in a room-temperature fridge so it remains warm and oh-so-English. If you’re more into outdoors shopping, Sunflower Bike Shop proves its strong regional reputation as the premier place for cycling, canoeing and camping equipment.

Once you buy some Sunflower gear, head over to Clinton Lake State Park and give your new stuff a test run. Nestled on the outer edge of town, Clinton Lake offers some great biking and hiking trails as well as smooth waters perfect for sailing. The park’s lookout sites lined up along the parkway offer beautiful views of the Wakarusa River Valley and the surrounding farmland. Clinton Lake’s shores also act as the site for the Wakarusa Music Festival, a three-day concert in June with dozens of bands and tens of thousands of camping music lovers. For more information, check out wakarusa.com.

All of this activity can make anyone hungry. Head back to Mass Street for an eclectic mix of cuisine and dining atmospheres. A must for the out-of-towner is Free State Brewery, serving up delicious sandwiches and pastas as well as the best hand-crafted brews anywhere. This patron is a huge fan of the Ad Astra Ale. Another Lawrence classic is Teller’s, featuring a strong wine list and a delicious Italian brunch menu on the weekends. (Since Teller’s is a former bank, make sure to use the bathrooms located in the old vault.) Pizza lovers will have to debate over the merits of Rudy’s Pizzeria’s “Pocket Za” or Papa Keno’s mammoth single slices.

After a filling dinner, a relaxing drink might hit the spot. Head onto Eighth Street between Massachusetts and New Hampshire to Henry’s where you can either enjoy a warm cup of gourmet Joe in the downstairs coffee shop or a top-shelf drink upstairs at the bar. Both floors offer a nice laid-back atmosphere that owner Dave Boulter personally oversees just about every night. For something a little more traditional, head down to the Red Lyon on Mass Street and 10th Street for a full glass of Guinness, a free helping of Tabasco-drenched popcorn and an eccentric crowd of townies.

Then it’s time to really hit the town at any one of downtown’s concert halls. Just one show will prove why Rolling Stone named Lawrence the “most underrated college music scene in the country.” These locales range from hardcore to mild. The Bottleneck on New Hampshire has hosted Radiohead and Wilco in recent years. The Grenada and Liberty Hall host national musical acts, as well as major comedy acts, at least once a week. If you’re not into rock music, Jazzhaus features local jazz artists as well as national talent who randomly show up to perform in this intimate setting. Once you’ve jammed to the music live in concert, pick up the CD or LP at downtown’s Love Garden Sounds. They feature all sorts of music, but beware of your allergies to felines: The owner’s cats pull rank over customers.

Of course, the town is best known as the home of KU, and no tour of Lawrence would be complete without checking it out. Once voted as one of the five most beautiful campuses in the country by National Geographic, KU sits atop the 1,000-foot-high Mount Oread and is dotted with sprawling green spaces and red-roofed buildings dating back to the 1860s. The Campanile is a park dedicated to Jayhawk students killed while serving in World War II and features the pristine Potter’s Lake and the Spencer Museum of Art, which houses more than 25,000 works. The museum’s hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday. For science geeks, Bailey Hall is a must-visit spot. Best known for the lab where helium was first identified, Bailey is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

The west side of campus features the Robert J. Dole Institute of Politics. Opened in 2003, the institute was designed as a public, nonpartisan research facility emphasizing the virtues of politics and public policy. The institute’s lecture series is quickly developing a strong national reputation; it has hosted speakers ranging from former President Bill Clinton to Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. The building also houses a museum dedicated to Senator Dole’s career that is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday. The institute sits next to KU’s Lied Center for the Performing Arts. Depending on the time you visit, Lied could be staging a Broadway musical, a foreign symphony or a major singer-songwriter. Check out its calendar at lied.ku.edu.

Finally, no KU tour is complete without paying a visit to Allen Fieldhouse. Even if basketball season isn’t going (and good luck getting a ticket if it is), the Fieldhouse’s halls are filled with memorabilia from the Jayhawks’ national championships, the days of Wilt Chamberlain and Danny Manning and tributes to KU’s first coach—the inventor of basketball, Dr. James Naismith.

After all of this excitement, you may not be ready to drive back to Wichita. Those planning ahead can stay at the historic Eldridge Hotel on Mass Ave and Seventh Street. To make reservations, call 785-749-5011 or visit eldridgehotel.com. For something completely different, check into the Circle S Ranch just outside of town. Featuring home-cooked breakfasts every morning and a nightly social hour, the 12-room ranch house features large Jacuzzis overlooking the vastness of the Great Plains. They can be reached at circlesranch.com or by phone at 785-843-4124.

Before leaving town, stop by Wheat Fields at Ninth and Vermont, and pick up some of the best homemade breads and pastries around for the drive home. There’s so much to do in Lawrence that you may want to make a weekend of it. After exploring the city, you’ll find yourself knowing Lawrence as more than just the Jayhawks.