Chester's Charm

Chester’s Chophouse updates the classic steakhouse with an inspired menu and atmosphere.

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Twenty-first century steakhouses bear little resemblance to the testosterone-filled eateries of old. Today’s softened steakhouses pay close attention to presentation and offer a variety of menu options. These eateries invite both men and women to relax with a glass of wine and a premium-cut steak or fresh seafood. This is the very concept that Wink Hartman and Bobby Lane set out to achieve when they opened Chester’s Chophouse & Wine Bar in 2004.
Everything about the east-side eatery is warm and inviting. There are tall leather booths, handcrafted chandeliers, oak floors, soft lighting and rich mahogany. A display kitchen near the main dining room allows diners to watch as chefs scurry about, and a back room and patio provide a scenic view of Beech Lake.

Then there’s the food. Executive Chef Bobby Lane, a culinary master who trained with renowned French chefs, is versed in a wide variety of culinary styles and has received critical acclaim from Bon Appétit and Wine Spectator, paid ample attention to presentation and fresh ingredients.

A trio of us visited the eatery on a recent Wednesday evening. From the moment we walked in the door, the staff was professional and seated us right away. Throughout the evening, multiple servers circled back without intruding on our conversation to ensure water and wine glasses were full.

We began the evening by ordering a bottle of Castle Rock Pinot Noir. For an appetizer, we selected the prime beef carpaccio, served with farm arugula, white truffle vinaigrette and parma cheese. The delicious appetizer went quickly, so we decided to try the night’s appetizer special, the mussels. Before that night, I wasn’t even aware you could find fresh mussels flown in from Maine. The delicate appetizer was served in a bucket with zesty tomato, fresh roasted corn, a garlic white wine broth and an onion relish that accented the flavor.

For the entrée, I stuck with the restaurant’s namesake by ordering the 8-ounce center cut filet mignon. The steak, cooked medium-rare on an oak fire, came out by itself on a white plate with green herbs sprinkled on the sides, a simple presentation that left no room to mask the beef’s quality. As I sank my fork and knife into the steak, it contracted like a sponge and melted in my mouth. A co-worker ordered the natural sirloin steak, a thick and juicy cut of meat with port wine sauce as a perfect complement. Finally, our vegan friend ordered the maple mustard salmon. Many local seafood eateries upstage the fish by relying too heavily on sauces and seasonings to add flavor, but the mixture of lemon caper butter and maple mustard sauce added a stark contrast without overpowering the taste of the salmon.

The sides were served family-style, an unexpected change for an upscale eatery. We ordered the herbed house fries with hints of brown sugar and cinnamon that made them quite addictive. These fries are to Chester’s what kettle corn is to an outdoor festival. The roasted jacket potatoes had a soft inside and semi-crispy exterior with a buttery flavor and horseradish on the side, another addictive dish. The asparagus was the only disappointment of the night, with the asparagus being slightly overcooked and the lemon garlic vinaigrette leaving something to the imagination.

Finally, to cap off the evening, we ordered the carafe of Tumbleweeds. Chester’s take on the old Kansas favorite offered a sophisticated new spin. The creamy concoction arrived in a glass carafe with Belgian chocolate-covered cherries, white chocolate waffle straws and a sprinkling of ground chocolate. The creamy, adult dessert was spectacular and worth a trip to Chester’s in and of itself. After I had just one sip, the drink became a nightcap favorite.

By the time we left our marathon dinner, totaling more than three hours, it felt like leaving a terrific dinner party. At no point did we feel rushed to leave. The sophisticated menu items were expertly prepared and served in a well-timed manner, balanced by a comfort level similar to that found in the privacy of one’s home. This was partly due to the company but also attributed to the relaxed environment, professional service and welcoming hosts. I’m already anticipating future evenings spent on the patio at Chester’s, drinking carafes of tumbleweeds and savoring fresh seafood and steak while gazing out over the lake.