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  Tuesday, January 6, 2009

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Wichita Magazine

Pinot Noir: The Ultimate Summer Sipper

The grape that loves to grow in cool temperatures also requires constant care and attention.

Pinot Noir: The Ultimate Summer Sipper
Jamie Stratton
Miles and Jack of the famed movie Sideways put Pinot Noir on everybody’s radar last year. Not that the grape needed any help, though. Pinot Noir has been booming in many areas around the world for much longer, thanks to our friends in Burgundy, France.

Maybe it’s the centuries of experience or that the land is superior. Either way, wines of this region command the highest prices in the world and are looked to as the benchmark for great Pinot Noir. The popularity of this fickle yet majestic grape has come from the success it has gained in Burgundy’s world-class wines.  

California was the first area to mimic the time-honored successes of Burgundy by planting in areas such as Santa Barbara, Monterey, Carneros and the Russian River Valley. The styles and flavors from each area can be quite different but all have mass appeal.

Oregon has also enjoyed a great ride on the coattails of good Burgundy. Plantings there exploded in the 1990s, and the quality of production has been well received. Pinot Noir is often thought of as America’s answer to good Burgundy because of its darker flavor profile, rainfall similarity and latitudinal positioning.

New Zealand wines are the newest player to make a big splash on the Pinot Noir market. Their growth spurt started in 1996. In a very short time, they became important to the world market. Following the technology and shared farming ideas from all three of the above areas has made New Zealand a quick learner with great potential.

The one thing that all of these areas have in common is that Pinot Noir likes a cooler climate. Slow maturation through cool vineyard sites has shown itself to be optimal for this silky yet powerful wine. It’s safe to say that Pinot Noir is hot, and when it’s hot outside it is safe to pour a glass of one of the following. Don’t hesitate to put your bottle in the fridge for twenty minutes to chill. Pinot Noir is the ultimate summertime red!

2003 Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne, France
Burgundy is known for its “terroir,” or what the earth gives to the wine. This is no exception; it has loads of mineral character that shine through the intense cranberry and dark cherry flavors. Let it decant for a few hours before enjoying with a grilled rib eye.

2004 Orogeny Green Valley Pinot Noir, California

From a new appellation within the Russian River Valley, this wine is made by the same winemaker as Dutton-Goldfield. The fruit-forward essence of strawberry and black plum are rounded out with bright cherry cola notes. Pair this with some smoked chicken salad.

2003 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir, Oregon
Oregon has a string of great vintages and, although production in 2003 was small, it was also intensely good. This pinot showcases Oregon’s ripe potential, while lending the dark fruits they are known for. Bold blackberries and cherry mask a slight hint of spiciness. Try with some grilled salmon and honey/teriyaki glaze.

2004 Mt. Difficulty Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, New Zealand

The cooler climate from maritime influences as well as the most southerly vineyard sites in the world allow for a longer growing season in Central Otago. That slow maturity gives a nice floral hint, which complements the smooth character of this bing cherry and sweet pomegranate-laden wine. Some garlic rosemary-marinated lamb chops would match perfectly with this wine!

After tasting some of these summertime wines, one thing is for sure. Pinot Noir is going from Sideways on the silver screen, to straight ahead.