Appetite for Ambiance

Does the cuisine at Yia Yia’s Euro Bistro live up to its modern atmosphere?

Try to remember the first time you stepped into Yia Yia’s Euro Bistro. Even after dozens of trips, I still have to stop for a moment when I walk through the eatery’s heavy double doors and gaze upon the lavish atmosphere. Yia Yia’s makes a sweeping impression with its bold, modern design. Hand-carved sconces provide dim, romantic lighting that glows on limestone walls and a mosaic tile floor. Corner booths provide intimate places for romantic dinners or get-togethers with friends. A long bar holds an impressive selection, including the $100 margarita and an array of top-shelf liquor. The bistro’s atmosphere isn’t quite reminiscent of Europe, but it does give the impression that you’re not in Kansas anymore.

I visited the restaurant on a recent Wednesday evening with two co-workers to discuss business and life in general. Gary, our publisher, makes it a must to spend Wednesdays there when in Wichita to take advantage of the $5 martini specials. The restaurant was packed, with standing room only, so we started our evening at the bar. (Apparently, Gary isn’t the only one who’s caught onto the Wednesday martini specials.) A good-natured bartender frequently checked up on us—a pleasant surprise considering the sizeable crowd. After several drinks, we moved to a table in the large dining room.
A friendly waiter greeted us a few moments after we sat down. The young server held an impressive knowledge of the menu. He assisted us in navigating the wine list until we agreed on a choice bottle of Merlot. Moments later, he described the dishes in a manner worthy of Bon Appétit. We decided to order our entrees from the menu’s various sections, including Bistro Specials, Wood-Fired Pizza and Pasta. While waiting on the main course, we feasted on bread and wine.

For dinner, Gary ordered the grilled New Zealand lamb ($29.95), which came with parsnip puree, braised greens, baby carrots and caramelized onion jus. The lamb was as tender as meat can be—in fact, so tender that Gary commented several times on how delicious it was. Chris, our associate publisher, ordered the shrimp linguine. Unlike some Italian restaurants, the generous portion of pasta wasn’t drenched in a heavy sauce, and baby tomatoes and rosemary made for a fragrant and savory addition to the dish. Finally, I ordered the capicola pizza ($10.95). The medium-sized pie came with capicola ham and three cheeses—provolone, fontina and mozzarella. Red onions, banana peppers, Kalamata olives, oven-dried tomatoes  and chopped oregano topped off the colorful pizza that was cooked in a brick oven.

While the dessert offerings were impressive—with everything from crème brulée to chocolate souflée—we were so stuffed from the generous portions that we decided to pass and instead order another bottle of Merlot. The inviting atmosphere made Yia Yia’s ideal for conversation and drinks. Before we knew it, we had spent three hours there and left just before the restaurant closed. It’s a safe bet that we’ll soon return to Yia Yia’s, especially during a Martini Wednesday.


Dave Varner, Executive Chef
It’s easy to underestimate Dave Varner. The 24-year-old never attended culinary school. He hasn’t studied under renowned chefs or worked in kitchens overseas. Yet the talented cook is currently the youngest executive chef in the history of Yia Yia’s.

“I’ve just always had a love for food,” says the Wichita native. While he was young, Varner’s mother bought him a cookbook designed for youngsters that he frequently used. At 15, he landed a job at Green Mill Restaurant thanks to his brother, who already worked there. Several years later, he began a job at Dino’s Italian Grille, where he cooked Italian dishes in a fast-paced environment. Finally, he started at Yia Yia’s in 2002. The restaurant’s former sous chef, Steve Muncy, taught Varner the ropes and how to manage the kitchen. “I just soaked up knowledge from others,” he says.

Today, the young chef manages a kitchen staff of 20 that prepares more than 500 dishes every day. Eventually, Varner hopes to open his own restaurant. But in the mean time, he’s proud to serve patrons at Yia Yia’s. — J.M.

GETTING TO KNOW EXECUTIVE CHEF DAVE VARNER...
Age: 24
Single or Married: Single
Hobbies: Playing darts. A lot of the staff plays on Wednesdays at Field House.
Food Pet Peeve: Making a dish too complicated. I try to keep it simple.
Favorite Cookbook: French Laundry by Thomas Keller
Magazines: Bon Appétit and Saveur. I’ve got to stay on top of things.
TV: Food Network, Top Chef, Las Vegas
Movie: Boondock Saints. We own four copies between my roommate and I.
Sports Team: The Dallas Cowboys. I also root for the Cleveland Indians because I went to several games with my grandpa while growing up.
Food to Cook at Home: Pasta. I like to change up the ingredients.
Dream Escape: One day, I’d like to backpack across Europe and work in the kitchens.



Beyond the Menu
So you think you know Yia Yia’s? Guess again. There’s more to the popular Bradley Fair bistro than meets the eye. Check out a range of special happenings throughout the year:

• Beer Dinners
Sample different brews during the summer. Call for times and prices.

• Wine Dinners
Winter brings elegant wine affairs.

• Live Music
The Source plays on the patio on Fridays from 8 to 11 p.m. during summer evenings.